If you don't mind a tip or two. What I find is an easier way to bleed them at the line, is to pump the piston out further then loosen the line and push the piston back in to drive the air out. You can rock the caliper as you compress it to find the sweet spot to get the max air out. And you don't need a helper pumping the pedal. Also, If you have torches, heat only the bleeder white hot and keep it hot for ~a minute then let it cool thoroughly. I like to cool it with penetrating oil after it has cooled enough not to burn the oil. They normally come out easily after cooling. Good luck With your yt channel.

Eric's a smart guy. I'm sure he can fix that broken brake cleaner can too. Nice flaring tool, and fix too.

Good Tip! I usually extract the broken bleeders and insert new bleeders, but in that case, I think MeeMaw was right.

Just saved me a lot of time & money, much appreciated!

Brave for putting that lift where you didn

Not bad... Going to try this to save me some money on my $800 car lmao brand new pads and rotors just to brake off a bleeder..

I can't tell if this guy is from New England, Australia, or both.

Damn! And I thought I had rusted calipers on my work-van. Also had to change rusted brake lines that literally crumbled as I changed the shocks. That N.E salt for you.

Just from looking at the thumbnail I can tell it's a 2nd gen dodge I've had three of them

Yep - the joys of auto repair: Every Bolt's a battle. They need to teach that in auto repair school. Learned a lot from a farmer that I worked for (Oxy-Acetylene heat/water quench, whack with a hammer) - I clean and anti-seize everything - even bleeder screws...

God Hank from me myself and Irene is a mechanical genius

That vehicle is more rusted than the Titanic