What you did not mention is: the quality of the color is the main point in using small 0.15 - 0.2 mm needles. So the color is actually made out of pigments, when you come down to the size of 150 micro meters, then you need to have a paint wich is using such small particles. I tryed vallejo model air, and there are differences in each color, for example the metallic colors are using larger particles than for example "red".

Why don’t you get a different needle/nozzle set for your Infinity? You have the choice of 0.15, 0.2, 0.4 & 0.6mm needle/nozzle set. Having an a selection of needle sets means you can always have the best size for the job in hand. As you might guess, I have a preference H&S brushes. Why? No tools for most strip downs, exchangeable components and a good range of accessories.

The H&S is not suited for anything other then inks in its 0.15 format, (like an Iwata CM-C 0.18), but you can get the 0.2 needle and nozzle for model kit colors, which is way better. You can also use the 0.5 for larger areas, which is nice but makes little sense to me. I use a Iwata HP-CS like yours for everyday duty and it is a perfecly competent general use airbrush (albeit an expensive one). For smaller details on models I also got a HP-C+and keep the 0.2 infinity for the finest detail only

Nothing wrong with using the Infinity for larger work. With the .15mm needle you can get a line about 1/2" down to hair line. Put in the .4mm, and you can go larger.

you have tomanny brushes must be nice to be sponcord or have money the one thing you left out is that the tip on the infinity doesn't disappear if you drop it and its easy to clean also it has adapters to use bottles an has large cups and also a .4and .6 needles also i like the distance cap helps when doing diffraction spikes also you can buy the needle alone at 13 bucks badger velocity and krome are just as good but infinity has a lot more accessories

It's all about adapters. You find out what your brush has, what the hose has, and what the compressor has. Then if you don't have a match at any of those connections, you buy the adapters for those connections. But as long as you know there are adapters you can mix and match any brush, hose, or compressor.

Les:

Going to depend on the thickness of the paint. If you are thinning acrylic it may not be thinned enough. Also the acrylic uses a pigment powder vs. Ab paint is more dye based. Thicker paint takes more air pressure from the compressor and you can get speckling or spatter. AB paint may be more expensive in most cases but you will get better results and use less air pressure. Pulling back on the trigger that increases the paint air to paint mixture.

Hi! I want to buy an airbrush for details on airplanes (1:48). I am using Vallejo model air colors with airbrush cleaner as thinner and flow improver. I am between Badger Krome, Iwata Revolution 0.3 and Iwata Eclipse 0.3. What do you recommend? Will I have a problem with those acrylics? Until now, I have been using a Badger 200, single action. Thank you.

It's about the same as any other. Only replacing needle/nozzles if I have an accident and bend the tip. I will say the Badger airbrushes that utilize the micro nozzles (Krome, Sotar 20/20) are NOT for people who are clumsy. The nozzle is the size of a grain of rice. Lose that a couple times and it gets expensive.

my first airbrush was an ebay elcheapo brush and compressor, I got it too try this type of painting. After I dropped it and bent the nozzle (ARGH) I replaced it with another elcheapo chinese copy, but I've ordered the Harder and steinbeck and cant wait to see how much of an improvement a proper airbrush gives me